HOW BLOCK PRINTING works

Printing

This is the heart of the process. The printer takes the first block ~ the one carrying the primary outline or dominant colour ~ dips it into the gaddi, and positions it at the starting point on the fabric. The placement of this first impression is crucial: it establishes the registration for the entire length of cloth. The block is aligned using visual judgement and, for subsequent impressions, the small registration pins (tikki) set into the block's corners.

With the block in position, the printer strikes the back of it firmly with a closed fist. This strike transfers the dye from the raised design surface to the fabric. The force must be calibrated ~ strong enough to ensure complete, even transfer across the entire face of the block, but not so forceful that the dye bleeds or the block shifts on the cloth. This calibration is instinctive, developed through thousands of repetitions.

The printer works from left to right, top to bottom, covering the fabric in a systematic grid. Each impression must align precisely with the ones around it. Where two impressions meet, the pattern should flow seamlessly, with no visible gap and no overlap. Achieving this level of registration by eye ~ without guides, without machinery, with only the tikki pins and years of experience ~ is one of the most impressive aspects of the craft.

An experienced block printer develops a distinctive working rhythm ~ dip, place, strike, lift, move, dip, place, strike, lift, move. This rhythm, once established, can be maintained for hours. It is not mechanical repetition but a meditative kind of focus, where the body knows the movements and the mind attends to the subtle variations in each impression. Watching a skilled printer at work, one is struck by the fluidity and economy of movement ~ there is no wasted motion, no hesitation, just a steady, unhurried progression across the cloth.

If the design includes multiple colours, the process is repeated for each colour using a different block. This is where complexity escalates rapidly. A two-colour design requires two complete passes over the entire length of fabric. A six-colour design requires six. Each subsequent pass must align not only with its own grid but with every previous colour layer.

At Daughters of India, our simpler designs ~ like some Kyra and Sahana prints ~ use two blocks and two colour passes. Our Jasmine designs, with their intricate multi-layered patterns, require up to six blocks and six complete passes. Each additional colour multiplies both the time required and the opportunity for registration error.

Drying

Between colour passes ~ and after the final pass is complete ~ the fabric must dry. In the traditional method, this means sun-drying: the printed cloth is laid out or hung in the open air, where sun and breeze work together to set the colour and evaporate the moisture from the dye.

Sun-drying is not merely a practical necessity. The sun's heat and ultraviolet light play an active role in the chemistry of dye fixation, helping certain colours bond more strongly with the fabric fibres. The intensity and duration of sun exposure can affect the final hue ~ another variable that the experienced printer understands and accounts for.

Washing

After the final colour has been printed and dried, the fabric undergoes washing. This step removes any unfixed dye, softens the fabric, and reveals the true colours of the finished print. The colours that appear immediately after printing are not necessarily the colours of the finished textile. Washing removes excess surface dye and allows the bonded colour to emerge clearly.

For information on how this process relates to the colour variations you may notice in hand block-printed garments, visit our Why Colour Varies page.

Quality Control

All loose threads are carefully trimmed. Every garment is measured against its size specification ~ seam positions, hem lengths, sleeve dimensions, and overall proportions are checked to ensure consistency. The printed pattern is examined for registration accuracy, colour consistency, print clarity, and any defects such as smudging or missed areas. Stitching is checked for strength, evenness, and neatness.

Each garment is then hand washed and sun dried as a final colour fastness test. Garments are compared against a colour reference to ensure the hue falls within the expected range. The final step: each garment is lightly steamed to remove any creases, then carefully folded and prepared for packing. The garment is now ready to make its journey from India to you.