Artisan at the Daughters of India textile workshop, representing the skilled makers behind handcrafted garments

INDIA & PLACE

Glossary OF INDIAN
TEXTILE TERMS

The language of Indian textiles is rich, layered, and deeply connected to the craft itself. This glossary gathers the essential terms ~ a reference to return to as you explore the world of handmade cloth.

This glossary covers terms used across our Craft Content Hub. Terms are grouped alphabetically. From the block carver's chisel to the printer's tray ~ the language of Indian textiles maps a world of making.

A ~ Z Reference

Artisan pressing a carved wooden block onto fabric, creating a blue floral block print pattern

The language of Indian cloth ~ each term carries centuries of craft knowledge

Artisan pouring dye during the traditional dyeing process

GLOSSARY A ~ F

A

A complex block printing tradition practised primarily in Gujarat and Sindh. Involves multiple stages of resist-dyeing, mordanting, and printing, sometimes requiring over twenty separate steps. See Ajrakh Printing.

A red dye compound historically derived from the root of the madder plant. Produces warm reds, pinks, and oranges depending on the mordant used.

A mineral salt widely used as a mordant in textile dyeing. Helps fix dye to fibre, improving colour fastness and brightness. See The Art of Mordanting.

A skilled worker who makes things by hand, typically using traditional techniques learned through apprenticeship or family transmission.

Textile dyes formulated without azo compounds, which can release harmful aromatic amines. Daughters of India uses eco-friendly AZO-free dyes for all block-printed garments. See AZO-Free Dyes.

A chain-stitch embroidery technique performed with a hooked needle. Practised widely across Rajasthan and Kashmir.

B

A tie-dye technique producing soft, cloud-like patterns. The name means "cloud" in Hindi. See Leheriya & Badal.

A block printing tradition from Madhya Pradesh using natural dyes ~ primarily red from alizarin and black from iron rust. See Bagh Printing.

A village near Jaipur known for its distinctive dabu (mud-resist) block printing tradition. See Bagru Tradition.

The ancient Indian art of tie-dye through tying. A single textile may contain thousands of individually tied points. See Bandhani Tie-Dye.

A resist-dyeing technique using hot wax to create patterns.

The art of pressing carved wooden blocks onto fabric to create patterns. Evidence dates to 2500 BCE. See What is Block Printing?

The Hindi term for a wooden printing block, carved from Shisham (Indian rosewood).

C

A plain-woven cotton fabric, originally from Calicut (Kozhikode) in Kerala.

The Hindi word for printing, from which the Chhipa community takes its name.

A term derived from Hindi chint, used in Europe to describe Indian printed cottons. See The Chintz Trade.

A lightweight, semi-sheer cotton fabric with a crisp, airy drape.

A hand-operated spinning wheel, a powerful symbol of Indian independence through Gandhi's promotion of hand-spun khadi.

A community of hereditary block printers in Rajasthan.

The resistance of a dyed textile to colour change when exposed to washing, light, perspiration, or rubbing.

D

A mud-resist printing technique from Bagru, Rajasthan. A paste of clay, gum, and lime blocks dye from reaching fabric. See Bagru Tradition.

A flat-woven rug or floor covering, typically from cotton or wool.

A length of fabric used as a scarf, shawl, or head covering in South Asian dress.

A large vessel for immersing fabric in dye solution. See Indigo.

E

See LENZING ECOVERO.

The art of decorating fabric with needle and thread. India has vast diversity ~ Aari, Kashida, Chikankari, Phulkari, and mirror work (shisha).

The European Union's official voluntary label for environmental excellence in textiles.

F

A trading partnership seeking greater equity in international trade, offering better conditions to marginalised producers.

A model characterised by rapid design cycles, low prices, and high volumes. See Slow vs Fast Fashion.

Three women artisans at the garment-making facility working on textile production

GLOSSARY G ~ N

G

A padded tray used in block printing, consisting of layers of cloth soaked in dye. Acts as a reservoir so the block picks up an even layer of colour.

A thin, open-weave fabric. Cotton gauze is used for lightweight, breathable garments.

Global Organic Textile Standard. An internationally recognised certification for organic textiles.

H

A manually operated loom. India has the largest handloom sector in the world, employing millions of weavers. See Handloom Weaving.

A plant-based dye producing warm orange and brown tones, most commonly associated with body art (mehndi).

A traditional Indian townhouse with an interior courtyard. The Anokhi Museum of Hand Printing is housed in a restored haveli.

I

A technique in which yarns are resist-dyed before weaving, producing characteristic slightly blurred patterns. Pochampally in Telangana is India's most important ikat centre.

One of the oldest and most important dyes in history. India was the world's primary source for centuries. See Indigo ~ King of Dyes.

The tropical plant from which natural indigo dye is traditionally extracted.

J

A fine muslin textile with patterns woven directly in using a supplementary weft technique. UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage since 2013.

The capital of Rajasthan and historic centre of India's block printing industry. See Jaipur ~ The Pink City.

K

A textile art from Andhra Pradesh meaning "pen work." Designs are hand-drawn or block-printed. See Kalamkari.

A city in Tamil Nadu renowned for silk saris woven with real gold or silver zari.

An iron-based dye used to produce black, made by dissolving iron filings in jaggery and water.

An extract from the acacia tree used as a mordant and dye source for brown and tan tones.

Hand-spun, hand-woven cloth championed by Mahatma Gandhi as a symbol of self-reliance.

A community of hereditary textile printers and dyers found across Rajasthan and Gujarat.

L

A resinous substance from the lac insect, historically used as a textile dye for red and crimson shades.

A tie-dye technique unique to Rajasthan producing diagonal wave patterns. See Leheriya & Badal.

A sustainable viscose fibre from certified renewable wood sources. Used by DOI in selected styles.

A device for weaving fabric by interlacing warp and weft threads. See Handloom Weaving.

M

A dye plant whose roots produce red, pink, and orange dyes. One of the oldest natural dyes known. See Madder & Earth Pigments.

A flower used in natural dyeing for warm yellow and golden tones.

A chemical substance that fixes dye to fibre. Common mordants include alum, iron, tin, and copper. See The Art of Mordanting.

A lightweight cotton fabric. Indian muslins from Dhaka were described as "woven air."

The fruit of Terminalia chebula, used as both a dye source and a mordant.

N

The Hindi word for indigo, from Sanskrit nila (dark blue). See Indigo ~ King of Dyes.

Dyes from plant, animal, or mineral sources. Distinct from eco-friendly AZO-free dyes, which are synthetic dyes formulated without harmful compounds. See Natural Dyes of India.

Shelves lined with carved wooden printing blocks, each bearing intricate traditional patterns

GLOSSARY O ~ Z

O

An independent testing and certification system for textiles, testing for harmful substances at every stage of processing.

Cotton grown without synthetic pesticides, herbicides, or GMOs. DOI uses organic cotton in selected styles including Nora Primrose, Sundresses, Uma Wrap, and Zuri Peony.

P

A double ikat silk textile from Patan, Gujarat. A single Patola sari can take six months to a year to produce.

A village in Telangana recognised by UNESCO as a "Creative City of Crafts and Folk Art." India's primary centre for ikat weaving.

Traditional embroidery from Punjab meaning "flower work," worked in coloured silk threads on hand-spun cotton.

Used as a natural dye source producing golden-yellow to warm brown colours.

Q

DOI employs a six-step process: thread cutting, measurement verification, print and stitch review, hand wash and sun dry, colour variation assessment, and steaming for packing. See From India to You.

Stitching together layers of fabric. In Rajasthan, traditions include razai (cotton-filled quilts) and gudri (patchwork quilts from recycled fabric).

R

India's largest state, the heartland of Indian textile craft. Home to Sanganer, Bagru, Bandhani, and Leheriya traditions. See Rajasthan's Textile Heritage.

See Tikki.

Techniques using wax, mud, paste, or thread to prevent dye from reaching certain areas. See Resist Printing.

S

A district south of Jaipur known for five hundred years as a centre of fine block printing. The tradition behind DOI's garments. See Sanganer Tradition.

The Supplier Ethical Data Exchange. DOI's workshop is SEDEX certified.

Indian rosewood, the wood used to carve traditional printing blocks. Prized for its fine grain and durability.

A movement prioritising quality, ethical production, and garment longevity. See What is Slow Fashion?

Washing raw fabric to remove natural oils and impurities before printing. See From India to You.

Mirror work embroidery, associated with Rajasthan and Gujarat's desert regions.

A movement promoting Indian-made goods, championed by Gandhi during the independence struggle.

T

Techniques involving tying, binding, or folding fabric to create resist areas before dyeing. See Bandhani Tie-Dye.

Small registration pins in printing blocks that help align successive impressions and multiple colour blocks.

A traditional finishing technique. At DOI, artisan Shushila specialises in tagayi alongside tassel-making and hand stitching.

A naturally occurring compound used in dyeing as both dyes and mordants. Sources include myrobalan and pomegranate rind.

A spice plant producing vivid yellow dye, also used culturally in Hindu ceremonies.

U ~ V

Transforming discarded materials into new products. DOI has used upcycled sari bags from the Sewing the Seeds programme since 2017. See Supporting Artisan Communities.

A method in which insoluble dye is reduced, applied to fabric, then oxidised back. Indigo is the most famous vat dye ~ fabric emerges green-yellow and turns blue upon exposure to air.

See Cotton voile.

W ~ Z

The vertical threads on a loom, held taut, through which weft threads interlace. See Handloom Weaving.

A technique using hot wax to block dye, creating the characteristic veined appearance of batik.

The horizontal threads interlaced through the warp during weaving, carried by a shuttle.

Thin paper sometimes used by Indian block printers to proof new designs before committing dye to fabric.

A continuous strand of fibres spun or twisted for use in weaving or knitting. Quality and twist directly affect finished fabric character.

Metallic thread, traditionally from fine gold or silver wire wrapped around silk or cotton. Used in Kanchipuram saris, Banarasi brocades, and many other traditions.

Language, like craft, is a communal project. It grows best when people contribute to it.

A LIVING language

The vocabulary of Indian textiles is not static. It continues to evolve as craft traditions adapt to new materials, new markets, and new contexts. Terms like ECOVERO and GOTS sit alongside words like bunta and dabu that have been used for centuries ~ a reminder that tradition and innovation are not opposites, but partners in the ongoing story of Indian cloth.

Many of these terms will appear across our Craft Content Hub. If you encounter a word you do not recognise, you will likely find it defined here. And if you do not ~ if we have missed a term that belongs in this collection ~ we would be glad to know. Language, like craft, is a communal project. It grows best when people contribute to it.

Explore Further

SEE THESE TERMS in action

Women artisans block printing yellow-patterned fabric on a long printing table

What is Block Printing?

Understand the craft at the heart of this glossary.
Artisan mixing dye paste colours for the block printing process

Understanding Textile Dyes

The science and art of colour on cloth.
Elderly block printing artisan seated with carved wooden printing blocks

Rajasthan's Textile Heritage

The state behind many of these traditions.
Ajrakh ~ Sacred Geometry

Ajrakh ~ Sacred Geometry

The ancient resist-printing tradition of Gujarat and Rajasthan.
Explore All Craft Pages

EXPLORE THE craft

Now you know the language, discover the traditions behind each technique.

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All prices include Swiss VAT and import duties — no hidden fees at delivery.

Standard Shipping 5–8 business days CHF 15
Express Shipping 3–5 business days CHF 25

Free standard shipping on orders over CHF 250.

We offer a 30-day return window from the date of delivery. To start a return, visit our Returns Portal.

We do not provide a prepaid return label for Switzerland. We recommend using Swiss Post for your return shipment.

Once your return is received, refunds are processed within 5–7 business days to your original payment method.

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